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Posted on Sun, Mar. 29, 2009

The Grapevine: SLO County pinots for every budget

by Laurie Daniel

Plenty of local wines were on display at the recent World of Pinot Noir. The majority were from the Edna Valley and Arroyo Grande Valley, areas that may not have quite the broad recognition of Santa Barbara County or the Russian River Valley but have still developed a reputation for their excellent pinots. A smattering were from other parts of the county, including spots that are outside any recognized appellation.
One such spot is Aubaine Vineyard, which is just four miles from the Pacific. Both Stephen Ross Wine Cellars and Sinor-LaVallee produce pinot bottlings from Aubaine. The 2006 Stephen Ross Aubaine Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50) offers pretty, ripe cherry and crushed strawberry flavors, while the 2006 Sinor LaVallee Aubaine Vineyard Pinot Noir ($40) is more structured.
Stephen Ross, which opened its tasting room in San Luis Obispo late last summer, produces a variety of pinots. The 2007 Stephen Ross Stone Corral Vineyard Pinot Noir ($50) from Edna Valley is dark, aromatic and a bit floral, with cherry and black raspberry wrapped around a firm core. The 2007 Stephen Ross Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($30) is a very pretty wine, with plenty of juicy fruit, while the 2007 Stephen Ross Central Coast Pinot Noir ($24) is a good buy that’s more muscular.
Mike Sinor also makes a pinot from Arroyo Grande Valley for Sinor-LaVallee: The 2006 Sinor-LaVallee Talley Rincon Pinot Noir ($40) displays ripe cherry and spice with a supple texture. Talley Vineyards’ own 2006 Rosemary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir ($70) is structured and concentrated, with ample fruit and supple texture; the less expensive 2006 Talley Estate Pinot Noir ($36) is also excellent but with a little less complexity.
Laetitia is the other big pinot player in Arroyo Grande. Its Estate Pinot Noir ($20) is always a good buy, but its higher-end cuvees were being poured at the event. The 2006 Laetitia Reserve Pinot Noir ($40) is a lovely wine, with ripe fruit, good depth and a smooth finish wrapped around firm structure.
A number of wines from Edna Valley were available for tasting. Baileyana was pouring a couple of small-production special bottlings — the ripe, plush 2007 La Entrada Pinot Noir ($32) and the spicier, more structured 2006 S-Bar Pinot Noir ($40)—but the currently available 2006 Grand Firepeak Cuvee Pinot Noir ($38) is also a good bet, with its bright raspberry and rhubarb flavors and firm structure. The 2007 Claiborne & Churchill Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($26) is a pretty wine, with ripe cherry and a slight leafy note, and the 2006 Kynsi Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($32) is ripe and supple, with strawberry and vanilla notes. Summerland Winery poured a very attractive 2007 Wolff Vineyard Pinot Noir ($45) from Jean-Pierre Wolff’s Edna Valley property; the wine is ripe, spicy and juicy, with firm tannins.
And if all these wines are a little too pricey for your budget, it’s hard to go wrong with the bright, lively 2007 Edna Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir ($18). It doesn’t have the weight and complexity of many of the others, but it’s a very good buy in pinot.

E-mail Laurie Daniel at ladaniel@earthlink.net.